The Correfocs or Fire Run is no one singular event in Catalan tradition. You will see it appearing in village and town festivals throughout the region. To the untrained eye, it may seem like an unorganized celebration consisting of random fireworks and strange costumes. However, this noisy and bright custom has developed from centuries old traditions that make it the crazy party it is today!
The premise is simple – a parade is usually the focal point, with fireworks marking its passing. Locals dress up as devils, lighting the fireworks on the end of their pitchforks. The procession is typically accompanied by a steady drumbeat and plenty of screaming as spectators try to run towards and then away from the fire!
The most famous Correfocs is without a doubt the fire run that takes place at the end of the amazing La Merce festival. Held in September in Barcelona and marking the end of the summer, this is a celebration of the city’s patron saint – Mare de Deu de la Mercè. Lasting over five days, La Merce sees hundreds of events spread throughout the city.
The Correfocs takes place in and around the Via Laietana, usually on the last day of the festival, which is known as Día de la Mercè. With the roads sealed off to traffic, the devils can get to work spraying their sparklers into the crowds. Usually around 6/6.30pm, the event kicks off with a “kid-friendly” version, which is a little tamer than the adult procession whichtakes place a couple of hours later.
Dragons, devils and community groups dressed up in black and red roam the streets, banging drums and dancing. It’s a truly unique experience, and one that should definitely be experienced if you are lucky enough to find yourself in a Catalan town or village in the summer months.
I’ve been lucky enough to capture a few Correfocs – at La Merce of course, but also during the equally captivating and perhaps more soulful Festa Major de Gracia. This festival is known as the neighborhood festival, and has a more local vibe.
The streets are decorated in stunning paper and plastic light decorations, and wandering around here was absolute heaven. Again, like with La Merce festival, the Correfocs is open to all spectators, with a smaller and tamer children’s procession preceding the adult’s event.
What struck me during these events was the sheer joy of the participants, inhibitions let loose, and the encouragement of the local organizers to allow those spectating actually participate. Too often a parade involves simply watching from the sidelines. The Correfocs of Catalonia really do open you up to a little slice of local culture, if only for one night.
